I have lived here only a few years, but in that time I've seen changes, changes for an awful result. The streets, once rich with people, and the smell of cooking, etc, are now filled with newly renovated antique houses, and nannys pushing prams. Once a place of counterculture, art and innovation, has become a vapid, dead, dry agglomeration of property owners who do not interact. A confused, disparate, pretty to look at mess.
I'll be telling you more. Stay tuned